Cockapoo Handbook
The Cockapoo has been America's favorite hybrid dog since the early 1960's. While I have tried to trace back to the original cockapoo, I haven't been able to find him or her. However, the move is on to create the standard Cockapoo and give this dog the place it deserves as a recognized breed. This takes many years and seven generations of reproducable standards.
Because these dogs are being deliberately bred, they are no longer considered mutts or a mixed breed and are often referred to as designer dogs. They are, however, a hybrid. The difference being that with a mixed breed or mutt (and don't get me wrong,they can be just as adorable and make a great pet), there is never any way to know exactly what you will get when the puppies are born. Often mixed breeds have traits of several breeds.
Cockapoos, however, are bred specifically with female American Cocker Spaniels and male Poodles. The standards for the Cocker are well known and established in the AKC as is the Poodle. From this, credible Cockapoo breeders are looking for expected standards in the Cockapoo.
Ruling out genetic defects that are known to affect the Cocker and the Poodle is the first step. One of the oldest and largest Cockapoo Breeding Clubs is the Cockapoo Club of America (CCA). They require that their breeders have their breeding stock certified annually by the Canine Eye Registry Foundation (CERF) to ensure that there isn't any genetic eye disease. In addition, they also require certification by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) to prevent the passing on of a genetic fault of patellar luxation (kneecaps dislocate). In doing this, the two most common defaults of the Cocker and the Poodle are eliminated when bred to create the Cockapoo.
The Cockapoo Angel Breeders Club is a smaller club but is also following these same standards. The goal is to create a healthy dog that meets the required standards. Eventally, with clubs like these who are made up of responsible and credible breeders, the standards will be met and the the Cockapoo will take their rightful place as an AKC recognized dog.
In the meantime, you may be interested to know that there are other organizations out there that you can join with your Cockapoo. The first step after potty training is obedience classes. This is an absolute, not only to create a well behaved family member, but also for safety reasons. A dog trained to "drop it" or to "stop" or "return" can save a dogs' life.
Then the fun starts. It is one thing to train your dog to do tricks. In fact, I love it that I have three dogs who will stand on their hind legs and turn circles when I tell them to dance! It is really cute. But there is so much more that these little cuties can do. The United States Dog Agility Association, North American Dog Agility Council, and Canine Performance Events are all available to hybrids and mixed breeds. Your Cockapoo can become a champion in agility competitions. You can also take a Cockapoo for training as a Therapy Dog for hospitals and nursing homes. They are wonderful with children and the elderly, and everyone else in between.
There is also the North American Flyball Association, which uses a lot of tennis balls and strategically placed hurdles. And it isn't as easy as it looks. But Cockapoos have a great vertical leap and can be trained to compete. They can catch Frisbees as well. Other organizations include Canine Freestyle Federation, Association of Pet Dog Trainers, American Mixed Breed Obedience Registration, and Mixed Breed Dog Clubs of America. All of these organizations can be found on the internet.
So, when deciding to adopt a Cockapoo for your family, you can see their are a lot of options for your new pet. I have a poodle that likes to go down my grandkids' slide, but I haven't found a competition for that! The bottom line is doing something with your Cockapoo that the entire family enjoys, or just you and your Cockapoo. Cockapoos are very versatile and can be content to be a lapdog and treated like a little prince or princess, or they can be active and trained to perform in many different types of arenas.
TRAINING AND BEING THE BOSS 
When you first take your Cockapoo home, the rules need to be established. Number one is to make certain who the boss is. And that should be you. While you don't want a meek and submissive dog, you do want one that will recognize you as the "alpha dog", so to speak. To do this, there is a simple technique I call the roll over. This means that several times when you are first playing and cuddling your new puppy, you roll the puppy over on his/her back and play with the tummy. At the same time, you do not let the puppy roll back over until you decide it is time. By exposing the neck and belly to you, the puppy learns to trust you and respect you as the one in charge. This is important. You may start off with 15-20 seconds and work up to a full minute. This will also help you with obedience training as you have the puppy's full attention. This is a good time to tell your puppy to "look at me" and get eye contact.
Eye contact is important in obedience training when a dog is sitting at your side and you begin to teach the dog to heel when walking. Basic obedience classes are available in all areas and usually start out with the puppy socialization classes and teach the basics of come, sit, stay, and down. This continues on through subsequent classes and gets more involved the further you decide to train. Socializing your puppy is very important. This prevents aggression and often unwanted barking. It is much easier to start out eliminating these problems rather than having to correct them once they exist. Your veterinarian can refer you to classes that are taught by certified trainers. There are also video tapes, if you want to try it on your own. I'm a firm believer in obedience classes for dogs. I taught my children to behave and I will expect no less from my dogs! Sometimes, I think the dogs were easier. But that is another story.
POTTY TRAINING THE EASY WAY 
I know that this title seems like an oxymoron, but it really isn't. You can actually potty train your puppy in two weeks. I know that seems a bit short (especially for those of you who have had 2 and 3 year old children), but it really can be done. Most breeders start their puppies out on paper, so that when you take them home, they are at least paper trained. It is not difficult to make the transition to having a puppy go outside, providing you use a crate. Many experts highly recommend crate training and I have to agree. It works very well.
Back thousands of years ago, wild dogs lived in dens. This is a trait that most dogs still have in their genetic makeup and they will like their crate for that reason. It should be a safe haven for them. Eventually, the door can be left open and they will come and go as they please. I always have a toy and/or a blankie for them in their crates as well. I prefer the vinyl crates only because they are more den-like than the open wire, but that is a personal preference. For moms with newborns, I use the double door wire crates.
The technique I use is as follows. I never use the crate for punishment. I never rub the puppy's face in an accident and I never hit a puppy or a dog. If I am not holding the puppy or working with the puppy, the puppy is in the crate. I let the puppy come out to potty just about every hour, and always within 10-15 minutes after eating. At first, I will carry the puppy to the specific place in my yard as I don't want a sudden stop on the floor on the way. Eventually, the words, "let's go outside/potty" will bring the puppy running to the door to go. I still use these words as I take the puppy out myself though. Once outside, I set the puppy down and instruct the puppy to go potty. Sometimes I will take paper the puppy has soiled and place it on the grass so they can find their own scent. Now, he may just sit there or he may wander around. The important thing is not to take your eye off of him. The minute he squats, you need to put a small piece of a treat right at his mouth within 5-10 seconds and tell him "good potty". If you are outside more than 5 minutes with no results, it is time to bring the puppy back in. DO NOT GIVE THE PUPPY ANY TREATS FOR COMING IN TO THE HOUSE, WHETHER HE WENT POTTY OR NOT. This is not in capital letters by mistake. The puppy will become confused if given a treat for coming back in the house and not immediately after he potties. You don't want to reward the wrong action. Only reward the potty.
As for the crate itself, you will want to have paper in the back of the crate at first, just in case the puppy has to potty and you aren't available. The puppy will lay in the front of the crate and away from where he pottied. Make sure the crate is not overly large, but will be sufficient for him when he is full grown. For cockapoos, the small to medium crates work well. Puppies and dogs don't like to sleep where they mess. That is the other advantage of crate training. The most important thing is to be prepared before you bring your puppy home, and to have everyone in the house on the same page. They puppy doesn't touch the floor to and from the crate until he is doing his potty outside.
The best time to play with a puppy is after he has emptied his bladder or bowel. Have a special place to play, preferably not on carpet in case of an accident as they sometimes will mistake it for grass and once marked, it is almost impossible to eliminate that odor from the dog finding it again. I find just cuddling and playing with a puppy in my lap is sufficient while they are in the potty training stage. It really should only take about two weeks if you are very consistent and on top of it. By the time a puppy is 8-10 weeks old, they should be able to hold it all night, as well. Generally a last potty call around 11 pm will last until early morning around 7 or so, until they get older.
FEEDING YOUR PUPPY
How you feed your puppy will also affect the potty training. Puppies should be fed 4-5 times a day up to 12 weeks, and then 3-4 times a day until they are 5 months (check the food bag for the recommended amounts). AFter that, twice a day is the usual recommendation. If you find your puppy is not gaining enough weight or is losing weight on the recommended amount, simply adjust it to your puppy's appetite/needs. I recommend high quality dry puppy food from pet stores as it is easily digested and there is less waste. Cockapoos tend to like the small bites sizes. When I feed my puppies, they have about 15 minutes to eat. Whatever is left, I take up and put back for the next feeding. Of course, water is available at all times when they are eating. The dry food is good for their teeth,helping to prevent tartar build-up and puppies like to chew while those teeth are coming in.
To ensure your puppy is getting optimal nutrition, be sure to read the labels on the dog food. The Association of American Feed Control Officials set standards and there must be labels on the dog food for the type dog the food is intended for. Puppies should get puppy food until they are a year old. You can add a little canned food once in awhile as a treat. Canned food is also recommended if your puppy or dog is prone to kidney stones. Cockapoos are not known for this problem.
The one thing you want to stay away from is table/people food. A dog's digestive system is not made for the same types of food that we eat. Too much sugar can lead to dental problems or obesity. Salt is not a staple for dog food. Chocolate can actually lead to death for dogs. There are several variety of treats available made just for dogs and they will do fine with them. In addition, not feeding them from the table prevents begging while people are eating. This is a behavior you want to prevent. And if you have guests, they will especially appreciate that. There are several books available at major book stores and pet stores on making your own dog food and treats as well.
Something I have found that I really like is an additive for their water. It helps to keep their teeth cleaner in between brushing/cleanings and helps to prevent bad breath. There are a few different brands on the market and the dogs don't even know it is in the water. 
As for vitamins and supplements, I advise checking with your veterinarian. If your dog is receiving a well balanced diet and is not pregnant, nursing, or has a specific medical condition, they often don't need anything additional.
GROOMING YOUR PUPPY/DOG
The cockapoo is known as a non-shedding dog with a small amount of dander. While I can't tell you that your cockapoo will 100% not shed, they generally do not. Their hair runs from slightly wavy to very curly, depending on the individual dog. They do require grooming every 6-8 weeks for a bath and a haircut.
You can learn how to bathe your dog easily and even learn to give haircuts if you are so inclined. Most cockapoos get what is called a puppy cut, even as adults. This is a relatively short to medium cut that stays nice for the entire time between grooming.
I recommend that you make sure their backsides are shaved to prevent hair and feces from mixing. This can actually cause a blockage and make it difficult for the dog to potty appropriately.
For their faces, it is a personal preference. You can maintain a fuzzy little face, with the fringe, eyebrows and beard, or you can have it cropped closely or given a poodle cut on the face. Generally it depends on how neatly they eat and how often you want to clean their face. It is not healthy for them to have food stuck in their facial hair. Men with a beard can appreciate that (as well as their wives!).
The puff on the top of the head is usually a little full and looks good on a male or female. How full you would like it to be is up to you. You can actually get them clipped in a more poodle style if you wish.
When getting your dog groomed, you should expect the groomer to bathe, condition the hair, trim the nails, clean out the ears of excess hairs, clean the anal gland, brush their teeth, and of course provide the cut you asked for.
Speaking of brushing teeth, tartar can build up quickly on a dog's teeth and the only way to remove it once it is there is to put the dog under anesthesia and have it done. This is expensive and always a risk when putting a dog under. It is easier to just buy the toothpaste and brush their teeth. Once a day is ideal. This can prevent many illnesses and problems for dogs during their lifespan. Gum disease can easily spread to their brain and you can lose your dog from this. So it is an important part of keeping them healthy.
Most groomers will be glad to show you how to brush your dog in between grooming sessions. This will help to prevent mats and keeps them cleaner. In addition, you may need to bathe your dog in between grooming sessions. Sometimes those rainy days can make for a messy dog! It pays to keep a towel by the door on those days.
There are a lot of shampoos and conditioners on the market. I personally prefer the puppy shampoo as it is tearless and doesn't dry out their skin or oil glands that provide them with a shiny coat. People shampoo and conditioners are not made for dogs. Please only use dog products. If you aren't sure which to choose, ask your groomer what they use or get a recommendation from your veterinarian.
Should you decide to learn how to groom your dog yourself, there are books and videos, and there are classes. Practicing on your own dog is only fair. The first time you do this, he or she may not quite turn out the way he looked at the groomers. I can promise you this is true. So I would advise you not to offer to try your newly learned skills on your friend's dog. This takes practice and the dog needs to be cooperative as well.
Routine grooming will teach your dog the manners needed to complete the process without difficulty. You can also help to get the dog used to being touched and rubbed all over his body by massaging your dog, rubbing his feet, rubbing his belly, playing with his ears, ect. The more you touch him, the more he will not mind being touched and it won't feel strange to him when others are doing the same thing to groom him. It is especially helpful to run your hands down each leg and pick up each paw,just gently rubbing the bottoms of the paw. By doing this, the dog learns that it is ok for his paw to be handled and he will respond better to having his nails clipped.
Most dogs are excited when they are all cleaned up and looking good. Everyone "oohs and aahs" over them and they just love it. Of course, as I said, when you are doing this yourself and just learning, everyone else may not "ooh and aah" as sometimes there are distinct lines in the hair and they may be a little long here and a little short there. But they still look cute! From personal experience, I just wouldn't practice before an event where you may want to take pictures. And you will eventually get the hang of it so don't give up.
There are professional clippers for the haircut, as well as for the nail trims available at most pet stores. They type of blade you use in the clippers depends on the type of dog you are grooming. Again, get the advice from an expert. Most clippers come with a #10 blade and that is for very close cutting. If you practice with this, you will have a fairly bald dog. So you may want to try using a #4 for the cockapoo.
As for clipping the nails, it is important that you trim the tips frequently. This prevents them from getting too long and you won't accidently clip the vein and cause bleeding. You should always have stiptic powder on hand to stop any bleeding. It works well. And rest assured, your dog will not bleed to death from a toenail clip. But he also will not like a nail cut too close to the vein and nerve as it is painful. Have your vet or groomer teach you how to keep the nails short without any trauma to either you or the dog. You may even want to try the dremel tools that "grind" the nails, much like an emery board. And there is also the equivalent of an emery board for dogs.
There is a new product on the market now also, for those wet days or bottom cleanups. They are wipes, just like you see in the store for babies, only these are made specifically for dogs. They are great to keep on hand, and especially in the car if your dog likes to go for rides. Sometimes they can get their paws dirty when being walked during a ride somewhere and the wipes are great for cleaning. They also make wipes for in between grooming sessions that you can actually wipe your dog down with and they will smell nice and fresh. I have found this works well to get rid of that rainy dog smell that sometimes happens. Giving them a bath too often will dry out their skin and their hair. So the wipes are a great addition.
As for smell, there are also sprays for after and in between grooming. I think the most popular is the baby powder scent (based on it is always the least available when I go to buy it). But there is vanilla, coconut, rain, and even flowery scents available. Just a nice little added touch.
Well, once the dog is clean and smells good, you may want to dress him or her. If that is the case, shop around. There is a wide variety of items available, and the price range is just as wide. Pet stores are not the only places to buy clothes for dogs. On some dogs, baby clothes (shirts) will fit very well. And on sale, you can't beat the price! There are also online stores for clothing that may be much less expensive than the local doggy boutique. You will find everything from pajamas to raincoats to shoes. And it is fun!
I hope this answers some questions you may have regarding grooming. Feel free to ask me if I haven't covered something. And of course, always talk to your vet or professional groomer for advice as well.
Next up will be some basic training ideas. Stay tuned.
Basic Training for you and your Pup
Training a puppy also involves training yourself. I always advise professional classes for puppies and their new families. Knowing you have to show up and your puppy is going to strut his or her stuff in front of the other kids in the class will encourage you to work with your puppy all week. The work is worth the outcome, believe me! The more time you put in at the beginning, the better behaved your puppy will be as he grows.
Obedience classes do two things for you and your puppy. They help to provide a safety net to prevent injuries and also to create a well-mannered pet/family member. No one enjoys the dog that begs anyone sitting at a table for food. Or the dog who knocks down your guest's children as they come through the door. And especially the dog who rips the clothes of your aunt or uncle who are visiting to see the kids and would never have a dog in their home!! That said, you can't work on these things too much in the beginning.
"Come" is the most important command to get your dog to respond too. No matter what distractions there are, you dog should respond immediately and be by your side or in front of you, and sitting when he gets there. This can prevent mailman attacks and running in to the street to chase a squirrel or a ball, or worse, a car. It is one of the most critical commands. And it will stop the game of "catch me if you can" as he/she won't be running through the house playing hide and seek behind furniture while you try to get him to come to you.
The easiest way to teach a puppy this command is to use the treat method similar to the way it is used when potty training. And you will need a six foot leash. Put the puppy on his leash and let him drag it around a little to get used to it. Then, stretch it out between the two of you. Crouch or kneel down and give the command "Come". You don't need to use a name unless you have more than one dog. As you say the command, gently tug on the leash to encourage the puppy to move towards you. Every time the puppy moves toward you, generously praise and say "Good come!" and provide a small piece of treat. Continue to repeat this until the puppy comes all the way, just on the command without being tugged. Practice this 4-5 times two or three times a day and this will become a favorite thing that the puppy likes to do and will learn quickly.
Next up is teaching your puppy how to sit.
"Sit Fido" and he magically does! That would be nice, but it doesn't work that way. Usually they just lay down or jump up, until they understand the command. This logically follows instructing them to come. Once the puppy has mastered "Come" and reaches you, it is simply a matter of putting one hand on the rear and one under their chin and saying "Sit" at the same time. You can gently encourge the head up/bottom down motion with your hands. Do not be forceful with these motions. It is important that the dog is getting the idea and participating in this action. If he is fighting your hands, stop and start over. It will do no good to scold, at this time. Positive reinforcements and praise will work wonders. If you find yourself getting frustrated, then you need a break from training! This is a good time to give the puppy some water and get something for yourself as well.
Once you are back in the training mode, you can also use a small piece of treat to have him follow your hand up with his head, while you place a hand on his rear to go down. This will take practice, generally 4-5 times a day, for just a few minutes with each session. Five minutes is enough time to spend on any one command with a puppy, per session. They will start to look forward to this 1:1 time with you, and by keeping the sessions short, there is less frustration and generally more success. As puppies get older, and you start doing more extensive training like obstacle courses, the sessions can be longer. But for the basics, keep them short.
Next up is down vs. off.
Puppies love to run and jump. Unfortunately, jumping can cause problems and this does not make for a great introduction to visitors. Grandma will not enjoy getting run over by the puppy as she comes in the door.